Sardinia’s beaches are stunning.

• Sardinia’s beaches are stunning. My favourite was Cala Sisine – accessible by speedy inflatable boat from either Cala Gonone or Santa Maria di Navarrese (20-30 minutes), or on foot if doing the Selvaggio Blu hiking trail (2-3 days)… we opted for the former! If you get there before noon you will have it to yourselves – unlike the better-known Cala Luna, which we found rather crowded and disappointing.

  

  My favourite coastal hike was from Cala Sisine to Cala Luna, which takes you over a 600m ridge with spectacular sea views. At one point you walk through a huge natural arch in the rock wall – you can’t tell from the photo, but it’s as high as a 3-storey house.

  

  Below is the view when looking north towards Cala Gonone and Orosei. There’s always one or more white wakes breaking up the cobalt blue sea.

  

  And this is the vista from our base at the mountain hotel of Silana, perched on a 900m road pass:

  

  From here we climbed up to a serrated rocky ridge of roller-coaster limestone peaks. Sure-footedness helps, and you can understand why the only other creatures you come across are mouflons and wild boar. The views were stunning, cascading down over layers and layers of blue-grey mountains to a shimmering band of sea.

  

  We also explored the Gorropu gorge, which claims (along with Samaria, Verdon and others) to be the deepest in Europe. I’m not convinced about that claim, but certainly the 400m+ walls – streaked with veins of mineral and fungal growth – and the vast boulder-strewn bed were breathtaking.

  

  My favourite inland walk started from the picturesque town of Ulassai, seen below. After climbing to one of the distinctive tacchi (sheer-walled, fortress-like summits), it descends into a forgotten valley bursting with arbutus fruit and holm oak woods, with all kinds of mushrooms and bright green praying mantises to brighten up the hike.

  

  The yellowy-red arbutus (also called wild strawberry in English, though it’s not related, and corbezzolo in Italian) is made by locals into a delicious jam or compote. It’s not so tasty straight off the tree - the Latin name, arbutus unedo, tells you all you need to know (eat just one).

  

  After our hike, we plunged into still-warm seas at the blond-sand beach of Lido di Orri, shown here:

  

  Our last 2 days were spent lazing around the gorgeous little town of Santa Maria di Navarrese, with its sandy beaches and seafood restaurants – plus a top-notch hotel,Nascar (below). Our 2 dinners here were the best food of the whole week, and the superb breakfast buffet included irresistible mini-jars of homemade corbezzolo compote.

  

  The whole coast from Santa Maria di Navarrese to Tortoli is one long sandy beach, which in early October was a delight (and deserted).

  

  Here’s one final view to gaze at, looking over Santa Maria di Navarrese to rocky islets which you can explore by boat. Keen sailors will be in heaven here. I’m more of a swimmer and snorkeller, and found some delightful little coves to swim to, plus a coastline teeming with brightly coloured fish and eerily roving octopuses… one of which made its way onto our dinner table (via the grill, I’m happy to say).